American author Gertrude Stein, a close friend of Balmain's, saluted the advent of this "New French Style" in her writing. This image of an active, irrepressible, perfectly groomed, elegant woman with a touch of independence in her nature took root and was embodied in the "Jolie Madame", emblematic of the nineteen-fifties.

The 1960s were years of renewal for Pierre Balmain, who used fabrics scupturally for the creation of uncluttered designs accenting pure structure and contrasts of cut and style. This was also a richly productive period in the field of costuming for stage and screen. In addition, Balmain designed personal wardrobes for numerous international stars, including Brigitte Bardot, Marlene Dietrich, and Katherine Hepburn - to name just a few. This period also marked Balmain's first meeting with Her Majesty Queen Sirikit of Thailand, who chose him to be her personal couturier.

The name Pierre Balmain stands for a unique concept of elegance, a clientele of royalty and film stars, and a fashion hallmark recognized throughout the world. The ready-to-wear division, founded in the 1970s, has gradually made an impact on the market and is now registering significantly satisfying results, with some 220 licenses worldwide.

With the disappearance of Pierre Balmain in 1982, the torch was passed to Erik Mortensen - his personal assistant since 1951 and his closest colaborator - who maintained the House's traditions while developing and updating styles and designs in the spirit of its founder. In recognition of this achievement, Mortensen won tne France Haute Couture Golden Thimble Awards for his Automn-Winter 1983/1984 collection. Erik Mortensen then went onto his second French Haute Couture Golden Thimble Award, presented at the Palais Galliéra on 31 July 1987, for his Autumn-Winter 1987/1988 collection.

When Erik Mortensen left the House of Balmain in July 1990, he was replaced by youthful Hervé-Pierre, who served as designer from 1990 through 1993 for both the Haute Couture and ready-to-wear collections.

In january 1993, internationally renowned American designer Oscar de la Renta signed his first Haute Couture collection for Pierre Balmain and has now rejuvinated the line while respecting the colours, the fluidity and elegance of the "Jolie Madame" esprit.

BALENCIAGA, date of creation: 1937
It is not surprising that Spain has produced a genius like BALENCIAGA, capable of the most daring innovations in a superbly classic style. What is surprising is that this Spaniard became the leading French fashion designer. His story began something like a legend : born in 1895 in Guetaria, a small fishing village on the Spanish Basque coast, Cristobal BALENCIAGA was still very young when it became apparent that he was destinated for Couture. At the age of thirteen, he astounded the Marquise of CASA TORRES with his comments on her elegance. Realising his interest in Couture and his aesthetic potential, she allowed him to make a copy of the Haute Couture clothing she was wearing. Trembling, he did his work so well that she awarded him by wearing it. The following year he travelled to Paris. In a daze, he devoured the collections of DOUCET, WORTH, DRECOLL and others. Upon his return and at the age of sixteen, he opened his first Couture workshop in San Sebastian, where he adapted the Parisian Style for Spanish women. In 1915, the first fashion house was opened in San Sebastian under the name BALENCIAGA. In 1920, the second house opened in Madrid. He left Spain when the civil war broke out and established himself in Paris, where, in August 1937, he opened his showrooms at 10 avenue George V. From the start, a style was created which lived up to its expectations for thirty glorious years. BALENCIAGA himself sums it as follows : « a Couturier must be an architect for design, a sculptor for shape, a painter for color, a musician for harmony, and a philosopher for temperance ». Year after year, the one they call « the couturier of couturiers » created astonishment with his collections and the mastery of his cuts. He changed women's silhouettes. 1945 : close-fitting waistlines, square shoulders. 1951 : open necks, wide shoulders, looser waistlines. All these features created « the BALENCIAGA revolution ». MODERN DAILY WEAR: BALENCIAGA He also left his imprint on various periods : coasts with wide collars, tunic dresses, sack dresses in the 50's. He also turned his flair to the creation of prestigious perfumes. This man, whose exceptional talent never tired in its quest to achieve even greater harmony between the body and clothing, always knew that the true sign of elegance, the ultimate refining touch, lay in the subtle, delicate notes of a fragrance. In 1947, he created his first perfume : LE DIX from the famous couturier's address at 10, avenue George V. Only someone of his quality could be all this at once. Both a dandy and a recluse, he watched his collections displayed from behind a white curtain, becoming a mythical figure who only a privileged few ever had the pleasure to know. And not out of snobbery or affectation. Such man cares little for the world. Rather the world comes to him, and only the finest at that. His most faithful clients included : the Queen of Spain, the Queen of Belgium, the Duchess of Windsor, Princess Grace of Monaco, all regularly recognized in the press as the best-dressed women in the world. On May 12, 1958, he is made « Chevalier de la Legion d'Honneur ». In the late 60's : at 74, after working in Paris for 30 years, he decided to retire and closed his fashion houses in Paris, Barcelona and Madrid, one after the other. His last public appearance in Paris was for the funeral of Coco Chanel, who once said that « BALENCIAGA is the only couturier able to design, cut, assemble and sew a dress together entirely by himself ». On March 24, 1972, the undisputed Master of all the great couturiers - the man who inspired GIVENCHY, UNGARO, SCHERRER, COURREGES and many others - passed away in Valencia.
	Women's Ready-to-Wear Men's Fashion Perfumes and Accessories
France	BALENCIAGA SA 11, avenue d’Iéna 75116 Paris Tel: 01 53 67 85 40 Fax: 01 53 67 85 41 Press service Europe : Sigrid de l’Epine
United States	Press service: Pierre Rougier PR Consulting 50 Bond Street 6th floor New York NY 10012 Etats-Unis Tel : 00 1 212 228 81 81 Fax : 00 1 212 228 87 87

MODERN DAILY WEAR: YVES ST LAURENT

Christian Dior / Dior

Between founding the fashion house of ‘Christian Dior' in 1947 and his death in 1957 Fashion Designer extraordinaire, Christian Dior, introduced the new look. Comprising of delicate shoulders, narrow waist and elegant silhouette, the new look evoked the essence of 'Parisian Woman.'

Within this brief ten year period, Christian Dior created an enduring fashion house, whose name is known throughout the World. Christian Dior was one of first fashion designers to develop the concept of licensing. Originally,this was for hosiery, cosmetics and accessories. Today, licensing is the lifeblood of many fashion houses.(Below, a few examples of Dior dailywear)  Medallion Coat, $1150

The modern House of Christian Dior has replaced the new look with a new elegance, with Christian Dior Hand Bags, Christian Dior Sunglasses, and Christian Dior Perfume, complimenting the fashion line designed by Englishman John Galliano.

Stretch $160, Lace up pants $1275

HETZENDORF
presents CLOTHES
21. - 24. Juni 2001, 20.00 in Schloss Hetzendorf

trendy show of the students at hetzendorf. the fashion institute vienna is known for his education in creativity and trend research

Vom 21. bis 24. Juni jeweils ab 20.00 Uhr finden die trendigen Abschlussmodeschauen der Modeschule Wien im Schloss Hetzendorf statt. Garanten, dass der Ausblick in die Zukunft der Mode zum Genuss wird, sind die Absolventen der Wiener Modeschule Hetzendorf. Bekannt ist die Schule vor allem durch den in Österreich exklusiven Schwerpunkt im Bereich der künstlerischen Ausbildung. Die Modepräsentationen finden seit einigen Jahren zum Glück unter dem schützenden Dach eines Zeltes statt; denn verflixt noch einmal, regnete es doch in den letzten Jahren zumeist. Im Park erfreuen die Textilausstellungen "Labyrinth" und "Shelter", in den Prunkräumen des Schlosses die Ausstellung mit Schwerpunkt Modegrafik "my special room". See you there.

foto: Monika Katzenschlager

Elfenkleid 2002/3

"schattenweiber" - "women of the shadow" is the title of the fall winter collection of sandra thaler and annette prechtl
inspiration: the austrian legend about the women of the war between 1618-1648 _ social, economic and political situations

next>>>

Im Mittelpunkt unserer neuen Kollektion “Schattenweiber” steht eine Tiroler Sage aus dem 30jährigen Krieg. Vor allem die sozialen und wirtschaftlichen Umstände/Zustände Tirols während dieser Zeit bilden den thematischen Schwerpunkt und das Zentrum unserer Inspiration.

• spring 2002>>>
• spring 2001: movie and slideshow>>>  
• elfenkleid in interview>>>

foto: www.elfenkleid.com